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Jambo Bwana 3: A Week with Elephants


Thursday, June 23
Umani Springs Camp
Chyulu Hills National Park
Kibwesi Forest, Kenya

We get breakfast early before hauling our bags up front and say our goodbyes to the cottages and the nice people who run them. Brian picks us up and takes us on a short drive to Wilson Regional Airport, where we’ll board a charter to an airstrip near our destination at Umani Springs. Wilson Regional services the safari planes and small airlines that operate within Kenya.

Jambi has gotten us there in plenty of time to store our hard luggage in the terminal. Last night, we transferred our stuff to smaller, lighter bags, which carry all we’ll need for the entire seven-day safari. Though we have been limited to 33 pounds each, we never get weighed, and there never seems to be a problem. As it turns out, there is laundry service at both places, so everything works out fine — we could have brought half as many clothes and gotten by.

We have some time to kill in the lobby of the small airport, so we order some coffee and Danish at the counter while watching several groups of Kenyan kids in their matching blue and yellow school uniforms on a tour of the airport walk by us, peering at the white people and waving at us as they walk out onto the tarmac to see the incredible array of prop planes parked near the terminal. We join in waving, and I will not forget easily the dozens of smiling faces in their blue uniforms as they passed by.

This was the Cessna Caravan that took us to Umani Springs.

We are using a charter from Safarilink, and we climb aboard a Cessna Caravan, a ten-seater built specifically to take off and land on dirt and grass airfields. The flight gives us a nice view over the rural countryside outside Nairobi. There seem to be equal numbers of estates, small towns and poor villages and huts. I am amused when we are given a little sack with a boxed fruit drink and a couple of pretzels for our 45-minute, 120-mile flight, which ends as we bank in just over the heads of Peter and Jambi and the drivers, who are there to meet us, before a rough, bouncing landing on a dirt-and-grass field that we never see until we’re right on top of it. Everybody loves it.

It took about a hour to fly down to Umani Springs Airfield from Nairobi.

Jambi and Peter, along with Geoffrey and Mondaii, our drivers for the week, have taken the land route in the two Rovers to greet us. Each will become valued members of our entourage. The vehicles are packed with the food we’ll take into Umani Springs, a self-contained lodge in the Kibwezi forest. In no time, our group gets into the two vehicles for the drive to Umani Springs while Jambi and Peter board the plane back to Nairobi. We get in the car with Mondaii.

That’s when we get some really bad news. Mondaii informs us that, even though it’s warm and it will be uncomfortable, the windows in the Land Rover will have to be rolled up tight because of the presence of tsetse flies, two words he spits out with particular distaste. That’s because these venal fuckers feed on blood, spread diseases like human sleeping sickness, and even one hit hurts like hell.

Mondaii is determined that none of us will get hit, and he says that once we arrive at the lodge area, things will be fine because it “has been sprayed.” It makes for perhaps the most unpleasant and stifling half hour of the trip, with my imagination going wild as the sweat poured off my head. One of my pre-trip fears was mosquitoes and other winged insects, but I hadn’t dreamed of tsetse flies, and here they are … literally attacking the car windows. There are dozens out there bombarding the car from all directions.

It’s so oppressively hot that we’re all literally about ready to pass out by the time we get to Umani Springs, but except for another 15 minutes when we leave this area, that will be the last we have to deal with tsetse flies, or any other kind of insect, for that matter. Billie says she’s been bitten more since we got back here in Boulder than when we were in Kenya! Ithumba, our second destination near here, is much drier, and we see no insects there at all. Mondaii has succeeded in getting us here sweaty but safe.

Almost surreal and very wonderful: Umani Springs

The setting at Umani Springs is surreal. It could be the set of a Hollywood movie. This is as close to jungle as we’ll actually get, and we’re staying in modern structures carved out of a magnificent forest. It’s just outrageous. There are three suites, each in its own building, with a central building that serves as living room, bar and dining room. One of the suites is a two-story building with balconies around the whole thing. Beautiful. Lunch is served by Peter after we get settled in. Nancy and I split a Tusker, beginning a lunch tradition.

We get our first real look at the elephants at the 5pm feeding. They are housed in a stockade near the resort, and we spend an hour with the gang, which numbers about ten animals.

Lois and I get some quality time with Mwashoti, a young orphan who almost lost a leg to a snare in February.

Umani Springs is the Sheldrick location for orphans recovering from a myriad of injuries and still not ready for Ithumba or Voi, the two areas where they are finally assimilated back into the wild. Mwashoti, for instance, who was brought here earlier this month, had part of his left front leg almost ripped off in February by a cable snare, a particularly nasty poaching implement. The orphan in the enclosure next to him had his genitals and tail cut by a hyena, and a U.S. surgeon was brought in to fix the damage. He pees sideways now, but he’s doing fine. I’m immediately drawn to these two, and this hour is a stunning and humbling beginning to our week with elephants.

After freshening up, we meet up again on the deck outside the dining room to begin a safari tradition: The Sundowner. It’s an old British ritual, customarily done with a gin & tonic, while the sun is setting, to sit and unwind with an alcoholic beverage and talk about the day. I find it mighty civilized, much like America’s happy hour. Lois and Jambi have added a uniquely Kenyan twist: they brought in a couple of bottles of an African liqueur that tastes a bit like Bailey’s. Amaret or something.

Just surreal.

We sit on deck chairs in a circle on the porch outside the dining room as the daylight disappears slowly around us behind the hill up against which the camp is nestled. Peter has set out some food in front of a lamp that illuminates a tree about ten feet from the deck where we are sitting. Soon a genet, a small Kenyan feline, is grabbing bits and pieces and quickly retreating to the surrounding vegetation to enjoy the bounty. At another tree, we watch a couple of mongooses helping themselves, and soon a bush baby joins the feeding cycle, leaping to a perch in the tree to enjoy her portion.

At dinner Mondaii begins teaching us a couple of Kenyan songs, including “Jambo Bwana,” a popular Kenyan song that translates roughly to “Hello, Sir.” We learn that not all groups eat and socialize with their drivers, but we insist. Geoffrey and Mondaii are a major part of the week’s activities. Both are intelligent, curious, funny, and bountiful sources of information about Kenya and the people here. The songs are a great ice-breaker, and I won’t forget the table of us trying to sing along.

Jambo, Jambo bwana
Habari gani
Mzuri sana
Wageni, Wakaribishwa
Kenya yetu Hakuna Matata

We had neglected to bring the flashlights that we received in our Bustani Safari gift bags upon arrival, we’ve had a couple of drinks, and it’s already really dark as we head around the swimming pool to our building. But just as we enter the darkness past the swimming pool, flashlights come on to help guide us home. The stewards have been waiting for our departure. Just wonderful.

We thank everybody and head in for the night. The mosquito nets have been put around the beds, and we sleep somewhat fitfully. The big windows, many of them with just screens, are open, so the blinds wave all night in the gentle breezes, the sound mingling with the animals that seem to pass us from all directions. Perfect weather. Visions of animals roaming through the compound, and trying to imagine what they are.

Our elephant adventure continues here. Watch videos from our safari here.

1 comment

1 Jambo Bwana 2: A Week with Elephants — Jukebox in My Head { 06.22.17 at 5:34 am }

[...] Three of our elephant adventure is here. Watch videos of our week [...]

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